Bravo 3 drive up for winter

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Got a question about my B3 drive stored in the up position and a little rain water may have got in thru the prop before I wrapped a plastic bag around it.

2 things:
I know storing the drive up is hard on the drive shaft and exaust bellows. I intended to put it down after I hauled it to a storage site, but my dealer shrink wrapped the boat in a way I would have to cut it to get in and raise the engine hatch, hook up the battery (he was supposed to take out) put the drive down and tie up the shrink wrap. I had them put a zipper entrance in but i can't open the engine hatch.

If rain water got in the prop when the drive was up, is there a possibility of damage from freezing? Does the water drain out or sit in there until you put the drive back down? If it does, I'm thinking about pouring rv antifreeze in the prop, tying it back up with plastic and leaving it for the winter. Is that a good idea or not?

My other idea was to disconnect the elevator rods that hold the drive in position and set the drive down on wood blocks to relax the bellows. This may be the best idea, but I would need to secure the rods so they're not hanging down.

Please advise on your thoughts. I'm new to outdrives since my last boat had straight shafts...

Thanks!
 

Denny

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The main thing is to relax the bellows in a neutral position. Your hard part is finding a way to do it.
If you disconnect the pistons, you can tie them up across the top of the out drive.
Just remember in the spring not to put any power to the pistons until after you have hooked them back onto the drive. (ask me how I know)
Be careful, that drive will be very heavy without the help of the pistons.
Not sure about pouring antifreeze into the prop exhaust. I know when I drop my Alpha 1, a little water comes out, it probable would help.
You can put a leaf bag over the prop to keep any additional water out.
If they have a mechanic there I would ask him. How old do you think your bellows are?
 
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Hi Denny, thanks for your reply! I really appreciate it...

So is it ok to remove the 2 trim cylinder assembly pins with the drive in the up position without messing up anything? I understand the thing is a beast and very heavy, so i would get a guy to help hold it up.

I am worried it may not go back together correctly and the tilt will be out of whack....

It looks like both pins have to come off to allow me to lower the drive down by hand.

Another thought is moving the bellows while they are ice cold would probably do damage.
I may wait for a warm December day, LOL , and either remove the pins & lower the drive or cut the shrink wrap and power the drive down with battery hookup...UGH...
 

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I know when they take the drive off for service, they remover the 2 cylinder pins, but they have the drive down on a block of wood. When the reinstall them they seem to go back together in place. Just wondering if taking them off in the up position would be a problem?
 

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Iggy

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I am not understanding, why to disconnect the rods. I always brought the drive as far down as I could using the trim switch. That alone should bring the drive down relaxing the bellows.
 

Phillbo

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I am not understanding, why to disconnect the rods. I always brought the drive as far down as I could using the trim switch. That alone should bring the drive down relaxing the bellows.
He has removed his battery and the boat is shrink wrapped...
 

Phillbo

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Thanks, Phil... you are probably still boating, right?
Going up tomorrow for a couple days. Starting to cool off and have a couple other trips planned (san diego and hawaii) so will probably be the last trip until March....
 
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Iggy

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He has removed his battery and the boat is shrink wrapped...
I am not understanding what the battery has to do with taking the rods off or shrink wrapped? With the rods off, the drive might be too low and flex the bellows the other way. Not sure on that, but it comes to mind.
 

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Hi Iggy,

The brilliant dealer/mechanic disconnected the batteries, left the drive all the way up and shrink wrapped the boat without telling me. I dropped the boat off Sept 30 and they didn't get to it until November 3. I wanted to level out the drive. It would have been high enough to trailer it to the storage yard.

Since the boat is shrink wrapped, I can't open the engine hatch to power it up.

That's why I was looking at other options by pulling the pins and setting the drive on blocks of wood in the level position.

Now I'm worried about moving the bellows in frigid cold temp possibly cracking them.

Its a cluster....
 

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BTW. As part of the winterizing service,, They pulled the drive, lubed it up and said the bellows were still good. Iheard they last 5 years.

It's a 2013, so I'm thinking the bellows may be nearing thier lifetime and need to be replaced next year.
 

Iggy

Active member
Hi Iggy,

The brilliant dealer/mechanic disconnected the batteries, left the drive all the way up and shrink wrapped the boat without telling me. I dropped the boat off Sept 30 and they didn't get to it until November 3. I wanted to level out the drive. It would have been high enough to trailer it to the storage yard.

Since the boat is shrink wrapped, I can't open the engine hatch to power it up.

That's why I was looking at other options by pulling the pins and setting the drive on blocks of wood in the level position.

Now I'm worried about moving the bellows in frigid cold temp possibly cracking them.

Its a cluster....
Oh!! You could install a door in the wrap.......... I understand now.
 

Denny

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My one son and I call them circles, and no job is complete without at least one.
It is like when you do a home project, you will make at least 3 trips to the box before it is done.
 
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Amen to that! That's why experience matters so much when it comes to boats! It's great that you all give advice!
 
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