Recent content by dgiles

I think all surge brakes have a manual lockout at the hitch, but some also have an electronic valve that does it for you when you you hit reverse. MIne is like that. The reverse lights wire is simply wired to a bypass on the tongue to allow the oil to go through and not lock up the brakes. But...

Surge brakes are not smart, they do not know anything about the tow vehicle nor are they connected. All they do is the harder the tongue is pushed, the harder the trailer brakes. Very simple. So, you press the brakes on the tow vehicle harder, the boat will roll harder into the back of the truck...

There is zero harm switching between synthetic and non-synthetic oils. I would not mix them, but again, that still would not harm anything. How do you think they get semi-synthetic? Rotella 15w-40 is a great dino oil for boats or use what the manual suggests. Most legs call for full synthetic...

I have surge disk brakes. They work the same as drum. If you have trailer brakes, of course they should be working and adjusted properly and they are designed to slow the trailer more and more as more pressure is applied to the tongue.

Or fill it kinda full with cheap ol' 87 octane, dump some stabil in it and stop worrying. It will be fine and the world won't end.

Relax guys lol. You think every single fuel tank sitting for 8 months has ethanol free in it?

Something is definitely wrong and not sure its the prop. Has something changed or has it always been like this? A 19" prop is fairly low for any larger displacement. What gear ratio is your leg? Have you done any engine diagnostics to ensure all is good there?

I assume its a Volvo XPD composite drive? They are problematic and not worth fixing. https://www.marinepartsexpress.com/xdpupgrade.html

If it is salt water then it could very well be your rub rail leaking. If it is leaking while sitting, then no, but if leaking after running through waves for a while, that could be an issue. Need to seal all the screws holding the rail again.

Sorry but that answer doesn't cut it. Cheap or high end, there is zero excuse for failure in the first year. Otherwise, advertise that. Cheap gets you lower quality that may not last as long, less powerful engines, cheaper legs, etc but in no way does that justify workmanship failures in a few...

Ummm, no. A sitting 12V will not be above 12.7V. If you are getting 13.4V then it is either running or plugged into shore power.

It isn't the thru hulls or holding tank or from the running engine. The video clearly shows it leaking under the transom while the motor is off.

I would. Some guys will say to pull the drive every year and check bearings, etc but at least every second or third year you really should be pulling the drive and checking bearings and alignment. When this happens, I would change the bellows just because they are cheap and the labour is already...