Recent content by WIngnut

The forward pin is fixed. The cylinder slips off as soon as the nut and washer are removed. The trailing end pin floats in an eccentric plastic bushing, and pin will slide out as soon as drive weight is suspended y resting it on a wood block.

https://www.marinepartsplus.com/catalog/mercruiser/serialize(value)/BRAVO_THREE/809808%2096/1943-260#98704A17_jump About $630.00 for a complete Merc Branded unit. Be sure to order the correct side as port and starboard are different. Rebuilding all depends on condition of old cylinder. Always...

Easy repair. Buy a tube fitting wrench, 3/8-7/16" so you don't damage the fittings. They are called flare nut wrenches. Support the drive on a wood block and remove the rear anchor pin, disconnect the two hydraulic lines, and then remove the front anchor point nut and washer, and slide off the...

The u-joints and gimble could care less. At idle it's no problem. The issue is when you apply power and the drive is no longer getting secondary lateral support from the side guides on the gimble ring. Case distortion can cause a failure. At idle, as long as she's wet, she's happy.

I replaced mine with a set from The Matworks. They sent an OEM replacement set that did not cover my existing snap pattern. Very close, but not perfect. I contacted them, and they said they made mine from a previous customers template, and figured his must not have been OEM. Long story short, I...

Clean bottom is critical. My 8.1 HO will bounce off the rev limiter on a perfect day with lite fuel load and just me aboard.

Should be starboard side, aft almost at transom on the gunnel shelf.

Don't see this every day.

Here is the list. Concentrate on the ones that show 2 beeps per minute. These are reserved for non-critical alarms and are typically a result of a failing sensor. Critical alarms like sea water pressure, drive lube level, exhaust temp, oil pressure, and coolant temp will set a constant alarm...

Smart Craft has that input. Look to see if your depth transducer has 4 wires and that all 4 are landed into the digital Smart Craft harness. You should have a sea water temp input available.

Chap tachs of that era had a selector switch on the back so they were select-able for 4,6, and 8 cylinder. These switches were prone to moisture infiltration and sometimes your issue can be cured by switching the switch back and forth several times, which seems to clean the contacts. Worth a try.

Thru hull in front of the engine, starboard side if it was a factory install. Your sea water temperature sensor is also in that unit.

Did you use the potable water pump to put the antifreeze into the head, or did you dump it into the bowl?

MPI systems can still leak. I'd install a combo unit that also looks for CO as your boat likely has a generator used while at anchor.

That's your heat transfer tube which warms the choke thermostat on your 2 bbl. carb. No electric choke on these systems, so the tube steals some exhaust heat which acts upon the thermostatic choke coil. Item #2 on attachment...