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You can always relocate the pump.

I would fellow the supply line off the tank. That should take you to it.

I always try to go big. Tolling motors for a main engine really don't do well. Something like this would be a better solution. https://defender.com/en_us/torqeedo-440w-tiller-electric-outboard-motor-travel-903c Its light, shows battery status and more. But pricy. Don't forget, with a trolling...

Have you thought about the size battery/s needed vs its time in use? Also recharging?

I had the same problem years ago. They do make a bolt on repair skag. Or at lest they did 10 years ago. If you try to bend back, you will weaken it. I bent mine back and cut off the the rough edges. Then bolted the new one one. It was more like a sleeve or cover...

After dark, personal I would not go faster than 3 to 5 knots. Just for that reason. About 4 or 5 years ago I boat hit a fixed nav buoy in Boston Harbor. One dead and the rest in the hospital. The boat, almost nothing left of it. At night its very easy to misjudge distance, shapes..... More so...

You could clean and check the connections at the key switch. Sorry, you did not mention that the plugs...... where replaced.

I would start simple. Have you changed your fuel filters? Having a 2004 boat, ask your self when was the last time plugs, cap, rotor and wires were changed?

I don't know if this helps. The battery switch will isolate the two batteries or banks. With the ARC connected between them and if the voltage goes over or about 14V the rely inside the ARC will close. So both batteries will be charging. Charge voltage stops, than the relay opens.

Do the math. Load and distance to the size wire needed. I always go up a size to be safe.

Personally, I would not use an isolator. Not all, but most have a 0.6V drop. Which means the battery only comes close to be fully charged. I would use an ARC. Automatic Charging Relay between the two batteries. Than when leaving the slip, use battery #one to start. On return, use #two to...

I went with rollers, one reason was cleaning and painting. With rollers I would clean and repaint the bottom. than move the boat a few inches using a come-a-long. Clean and paint where the rollers where. Than use the winch to move the boat back. I did this with the trailer attached to my truck...

Almost any boat trailer in the 25 foot range would work. As Denny pointed out, it needs to have the bunk or rollers adjusted to fit the boat and the boat balanced to the trailer. As to the carpet, I removed mine due to mildew and smell from being wet. But thats me..............

Then I would use another power source. If it works after that. Then you ether have a bad connection or not enough current getting to the unit. Did you check, and not to ask a stupid question. But is the Pos and Neg wires correct? On a personal note, for adding more things on later. I started...

Was there voltage?

The next thing, use a meter and make sure the Simrad power cord has 12V on the pins. Oh,

On my Simrad, you must hold down the power button until you see the 2nd Simrad logo come up. Other wise it turn off. Personally, I would have connected the unit to a a buss bar and used the power button on the unit. But thats me...

I am sure any off the shelf ones are hard to find. I would go to a canvus guy for a custom setup. Its easy to add poles, but the canvus takes more work.

Great Job!

That sucks! But since you have it open. Can you add a door? Not seeing the sink, can you drill holes on the rim? Then screw it down and add caps to give it a finished look. Some day you will need to get back in there.