2023 267 ssx with 350hp b3 has severe bow rise

Paulswagelock

New member
Trying to help a friend. He purchased a new 267 ssx with the Merc 350hp and b3 drive. The boat pulls out strong, but has so much bow rise you must stand to see over the nose. No trim tabs. Dealer said there is nothing wrong.
Anyone have one of these equipped the same? Is this normal for this hull? The boat pulls strong and reached a 50 mph top speed.
 

Denny

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Sounds like she is heavy aft. Any change if he trims the drive in? A good set of hydraulic tabs will give her a whole new attitude.
 

Paulswagelock

New member
Sounds like she is heavy aft. Any change if he trims the drive in? A good set of hydraulic tabs will give her a whole new attitude.
Never uses trim, not needed at any speed. Thinking maybe his trim is calibrated wrong and not going all the way down?
 
Last edited:

SST

Active member
Never uses trim, not needed at any speed. Thinking maybe his trim is calibrated wrong and not going all the way down?
Before he buys the tabs, make sure you[he] "test drive" it before hand and verify that the drive is trimmed in the down position during acceleration and see what the bow does. My 23 footer does not have tabs and the bow will rise like the Phoenix if it isn't trimmed down during acceleration. I don't think you need tabs either. Operating the trim will likely solve the problem.
 

Paulswagelock

New member
Yes. I will check them when he pulls the boat to verify they are tucking the whole way in.
Might even flip the spacers to pick up the last bit of negative trim.
 

Denny

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
If for no other reason, tabs will help to balance and smooth out the ride and do it at lower RPMs
 

Iggy

Active member
Tabs would help but. I think it ether stern heavy or the outdrive is not coming down as it should.
 

Denny

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Yesterday (Saturday) was a pretty day, but Lake Erie was a little bumpy at my end, so I decided to trailer up to another place I like to boat, the southern end of the Detroit River, it is quite a diverse area. I packed a lunch and some goodies and headed North. Found a nice place to drop anchor to have lunch, and watch all the bass boats go whizzing by. Anyway, I started thinking about outdrives and trim tabs, so decided to do some research with my girl. Bottom line if you take her tabs away, there is no way that she will preform at lower RPMS. When I run the drive in it fights to bring and keep the bow down, and vibrates, along with needing higher RPMS to stay on plane. The only time I trim my drive is when I need to raise her bow in rough water, then I will trim it out with no tabs. Otherwise I run the cavitation plate parallel with her bottom. I cruise on average 17-22 MPH, and w/o tabs she cannot do that. Depending on water conditions, it takes anywhere between 2300-2900 RPMS to do that. I never run more than 2900, even when coming up on plane I do not get in my 4's. I am just that old man out for a Sunday drive. LOL
 
Last edited:

SST

Active member
Even though we have the same boat, yours behaves a lot different than mine. My OEM speedometer is still accurate and indicates around 18 to come on plane. The drive is trimmed to nearly all the way down. I adjust the drive up (raise the bow) as I gain speed to reduce drag. For 18mph, it’s nowhere near 2900rpm. Closer to 2200. I usually cruise at 3100rpm @ 30mph.

There are only two reasons why I’d get tabs for my boat. 1-If I were to navigate the Erie Canal more extensively ( mostly 10mph) I would get the tabs to reduce the terrible yawing my boat has at slow speeds. But most of my time is at cruise.

2-If I were either carrying a large load of riders or towing skiers etc, tabs would be necessary.

But I’m not doing either of the above therefore I’m just relying on the drive to keep the boat in trim.
 

Phillbo

Well-known member
I have my drive and tabs set and never need to touch the buttons (tabs get adjusted for windage on occasion but go right back to there set position when not needed). Easy up on the throttle and it sets right on plane. Never need WOT to get out of the hole.
 

Denny

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Even though we have the same boat, yours behaves a lot different than mine. My OEM speedometer is still accurate and indicates around 18 to come on plane. The drive is trimmed to nearly all the way down. I adjust the drive up (raise the bow) as I gain speed to reduce drag. For 18mph, it’s nowhere near 2900rpm. Closer to 2200. I usually cruise at 3100rpm @ 30mph.

There are only two reasons why I’d get tabs for my boat. 1-If I were to navigate the Erie Canal more extensively ( mostly 10mph) I would get the tabs to reduce the terrible yawing my boat has at slow speeds. But most of my time is at cruise.

2-If I were either carrying a large load of riders or towing skiers etc, tabs would be necessary.

But I’m not doing either of the above therefore I’m just relying on the drive to keep the boat in trim.
Are you Carbureted, if so at 3100 you are in your 4's, if FI, I don't think it matters. With all my additions I am heavier than you, so my outdrive will not do the job without help.

This is when I need 2900 RPMS to do 18 MPH.

 
Last edited:

Denny

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
I have my drive and tabs set and never need to touch the buttons (tabs get adjusted for windage on occasion but go right back to there set position when not needed). Easy up on the throttle and it sets right on plane. Never need WOT to get out of the hole.
At what angle are your tabs and drive set to the bottom of the hull when running, and at what speeds and RPMS?
 
Top