Stern Anchor?

[willbaker13]

Curious what thoughts are regarding a stern anchor. The cove where we normally hang out is becoming more and more crowded and I'd like to get a stern anchor so that we don't swing back-and-forth. We wouldn't be using it for more than a few hours (2-4) and obviously will still be using the bow anchor to secure us. With our boat size (25ft) can we get away with a 10/12lb mushroom anchor or would we need a fluke style? Water depth anywhere from 20ft to 40ft with minimal wind/waves and muddy bottom.

 

[J Kyle]

Tons of info in attached article.

 

[Denny]

To obtain maximum holding power of your anchor, the total anchor rode should be 4 to 7 times the depth of the water you will be anchoring in.
No matter what you drop down, if it is not taking a bite you will drag it along the bottom when there is wind and waves.
If you pull a fluke style from side to side, which you will be doing, it will not hold, they are meant to be pulled forward.
Mushroom style anchors:
Ideal for canoes, kayaks and jon boats, the mushroom anchor works best in soft bottoms, where it creates penetration based on suction. Makes a decent lunch hook anchor, but is not recommended as the primary anchor.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.

 

[SST]

When I first got my boat, it had two anchors in it. One fluke and one Navy. The fluke was on a larger scale [don't recall its weight] and was used for anchoring the boat. Rope was 100 feet long and no chain. It dug in in all situations. The Navy anchor is a 20 pounder. It too does not budge. This anchor was used for stern anchoring in 5 feet or less and held pretty well. But things changed.

Years ago, I had to cut two flukes which are now at the bottom of Lake Erie. I didn't make a mental note of the weight of each anchor. I bought another Fluke but I soon realized that it was smaller [8lbs] and it wouldn't dig in even with 5 feet of heavy chain that was added. Not wanting to spend more money, I swapped the 20lb Navy with the 8lbs fluke. Works fine. Most of my anchoring lately is 40 feet out in the lake. But if I visit a popular area, then it's 5 feet or less. This is when I use the stern anchor to prevent the wild swing of my boat. The only drawback with my 20lb Navy anchor with chain, is that it is about 30lbs and its murder on my lower back. Eventually, I may have to go back to the lighter fluke [heavier than 8lbs].

I would gravitate towards another Fluke but heavier than 8lbs for either bow or stern anchoring.

 

[Doc]

In your situation I do think a mushroom would work okay or a smaller fluke. A little movement of the boat would be acceptable and the mushroom would keep it in place for the most part.
Myself, if a cove gets that crowded I'd hunt for another cove if possible. LOL I know, you probably already considered that.

 

[willbaker13]

In your situation I do think a mushroom would work okay or a smaller fluke. A little movement of the boat would be acceptable and the mushroom would keep it in place for the most part.
Myself, if a cove gets that crowded I'd hunt for another cove if possible. LOL I know, you probably already considered that.

Thanks Doc. Yeah, we've entertained other coves but with the current lake levels at about 40% we are somewhat limited.

 

[willbaker13]

When I first got my boat, it had two anchors in it. One fluke and one Navy. The fluke was on a larger scale [don't recall its weight] and was used for anchoring the boat. Rope was 100 feet long and no chain. It dug in in all situations. The Navy anchor is a 20 pounder. It too does not budge. This anchor was used for stern anchoring in 5 feet or less and held pretty well. But things changed.

Years ago, I had to cut two flukes which are now at the bottom of Lake Erie. I didn't make a mental note of the weight of each anchor. I bought another Fluke but I soon realized that it was smaller [8lbs] and it wouldn't dig in even with 5 feet of heavy chain that was added. Not wanting to spend more money, I swapped the 20lb Navy with the 8lbs fluke. Works fine. Most of my anchoring lately is 40 feet out in the lake. But if I visit a popular area, then it's 5 feet or less. This is when I use the stern anchor to prevent the wild swing of my boat. The only drawback with my 20lb Navy anchor with chain, is that it is about 30lbs and its murder on my lower back. Eventually, I may have to go back to the lighter fluke [heavier than 8lbs].

I would gravitate towards another Fluke but heavier than 8lbs for either bow or stern anchoring.

We have a box anchor as our primary and it seems to work well in the muddy lake bottom. Though, between the weight of the box anchor (19lbs) and any clinging mud, I'm with you about the weight - especially after being on the water and in the sun for several hours. Getting old sucks, but it beats the alternative.

 

[willbaker13]

To obtain maximum holding power of your anchor, the total anchor rode should be 4 to 7 times the depth of the water you will be anchoring in.
No matter what you drop down, if it is not taking a bite you will drag it along the bottom when there is wind and waves.
If you pull a fluke style from side to side, which you will be doing, it will not hold, they are meant to be pulled forward.
Mushroom style anchors:
Ideal for canoes, kayaks and jon boats, the mushroom anchor works best in soft bottoms, where it creates penetration based on suction. Makes a decent lunch hook anchor, but is not recommended as the primary anchor.
Good luck, let us know how you make out.

Thanks Denny. I'm leaning toward something like this.

Amazon.com

 

[Iggy]

I would look at a Rocna or a Fortress anchor. Both have great holding power and will set quickly. The Rocna will hold even if your boat does a 180 turn were others will pull out. The Fortress is is light and easy to store and great for soft bottoms. The Rocna is good for all kinds of bottoms.

I have used both and would go with the Rocna as a around anchor. But as a stern anchor and in soft bottoms the Fortress is the one I would go with. But thats me.................

Remember one thing, you can never have too big of an anchor.

Rocna.com Some good videos

fortressanchors.com/

 

[Denny]

We have a box anchor as our primary and it seems to work well in the muddy lake bottom. Though, between the weight of the box anchor (19lbs) and any clinging mud, I'm with you about the weight - especially after being on the water and in the sun for several hours. Getting old sucks, but it beats the alternative.

That is why I went electric, push a button and it goes down, push a button and it comes up.

 

[Iggy]

a windless is a great thing.

 

[Denny]

a windless is a great thing.

For me it has a dual purpose, #1 it has lengthen my agility to still boat alone, which I do 90% of the time. #2 And for safety, I don't hop over the windshield like I did 30 yrs ago. Lol
I also added an electrical winch to my arsonal to allow me to be able to retrieve my girl, I think she has put on some weight.

 

[SST]

" I don't hop over the windshield like I did 30 yrs ago"

I'm still able to get over the windshield but I'm liking it less each day. To avoid having to climb over the windshield, I usually anchor off the stern if nobody is around. But if it's crowded or a windy day, then off the bow.

 

[Denny]

" I don't hop over the windshield like I did 30 yrs ago"

I'm still able to get over the windshield but I'm liking it less each day. To avoid having to climb over the windshield, I usually anchor off the stern if nobody is around. But if it's crowded or a windy day, then off the bow.

If I need to get on her bow, in rough seas, I will go through her hatch.

 

[SST]

Haha Yup, I’ve done that too.

 

[Iggy]

Just an FIY if you will........ In rough seas, I used a clam cleat. https://defender.com/en_us/clamcleat-cl204-mini-nylon-clamcleat-002040-1

As the boats bow goes down, I would pull on the line and jam it into the cleat. Than the boat would go up pulling the anchor. So the cleat took the load, not my hands.

 

[Denny]

Just an FIY if you will........ In rough seas, I used a clam cleat. https://defender.com/en_us/clamcleat-cl204-mini-nylon-clamcleat-002040-1

As the boats bow goes down, I would pull on the line and jam it into the cleat. Than the boat would go up pulling the anchor. So the cleat took the load, not my hands.

I was the clam cleat, when the bow went down, I pulled in the road, when it came up I held it in place on the bow rail, that was the easy part. After the anchor was freed, then came the fun part, hopping over the windshield while hanging on to the anchor line, reaching around the arch and then where the anchor was stored under the rear jump seat pulling in the rest of the road. On a calm no waves this was a piece of cake. When I was in 1-2's this was a different story. By the time I would get back the anchor had reseated itself. Now I have 100 FT of anchored road to to retrieve from the stern of my girl.

 

[SST]

When I anchored with the fluke and just a 100ft rope in windy/wavy conditions, I would usually pull it up onto the cuddy, lift it over the windshield and lower it to the floor and then I'd hop over the windshield and head back to calm conditions and then store it.

But now, with the Navy anchor and 5 feet of chain with 70 feet of rope, if necessary, I'll lift it onto the cuddy but this time lower it through the cuddy hatch and deal with it when I return. It's way too heavy for me to lift that over the windshield let alone keep my balance in wavy conditions.

I wouldn't mind having a windless but its too late to bother and I don't want to spend the money on it.

 

[Denny]

For me it was mostly a safety issue, crawling around on my hands and knees on my deck in 2ft waves on Lake Erie is no fun. As you well know.

 

[SST]

Haha, yeah I know, I solved that problem by not bothering to go out into Lake Erie in more than 1 foot. The boat handles it well, but I don't.